Congratulations to the following nominees who were elected to be on the 2017/2018 Colorado 811 Board of Directors:
Electric Distribution: Brad Vitale, Xcel Energy
Cable Television: Frank Trujillo, Comcast
Electric Cooperative: Cody O’Neil, Holy Cross Energy
Communications: Thomas Sturmer, Century Link
Government: Gary Behlen, Town of Erie
Tier Two: Eddie Hernandez, Denver Water
Excavator Director: Toni Pascal, Pascal Construction Company
To contact any of the Colorado 811 Board of Directors, click here.
The CGA Data Reporting and Evaluation Committee (DREC) met to discuss changes to the 2018 DIRT Field Form. The purpose of the 2018 DIRT changes are to streamline, encourage more participation, respond to user community feedback, clarify questions and enhance analysis.
To view the detailed presentation of the 2018 changes and enhancements, click here.
Click here to learn more about Colorado DIRT.
NUCA Member $175; NonMember $200
NUCA of Colorado is offering the OSHA 10 Hour Training designed for all employees involved in construction work, including job foremen, superintendents, engineers and any personnel involved in underground projects.
According to OSHA 20 CFR 1026.21(b)(2), “The employer shall instruct each employee in the recognition and avoidance of unsafe conditions and the regulations applicable to his work environment to control or eliminate any hazards or other exposure to illness or injury.” The OSHA 10 Hour Outreach Program provides the desired general safety training for construction workers to help facilitate this requirement.
OSHA 10 Hour Training Topics: Introduction to OSHA, OSHA Focus Four Hazards, Fall Protection, Electrical, Struck by (falling objects, trucks, cranes), Caught in/between (trench hazards, equipment), PPE and Lifesaving Equipment, Health Hazards in Construction, Trench & Excavation, Permit Required Confined Space, Two Hours of Elective Topics (based upon class consensus)
Register Online below (if you register more than just 1 person, put the names of the other attendees in the comments section)
Or Register using the Class Flyer
Certain trees and shrubs can cause damage in around septic tanks and drain fields with their aggressive roots. Which plants were the worst to grow over a septic system and which are safer choices?
Do not become so paranoid over the potential of damage to septic systems caused by roots that you abstain from planting these areas altogether. Growing the right kind of vegetation here is not only permissible but actually advisable.
Plants will prevent erosion and suck up some of the excess moisture from the drain field.
Perennials, annuals, small, non-woody ground covers, and grasses (including ornamental grasses) work best around your septic tank and drain field because their shallow root systems are less likely to invade the underground system and cause it damage. There are, of course, innumerable examples of such plants, so you will want to narrow down your choices. A good way to start is to consider growing conditions:
It is not safe to grow (and eat) food crops in the ground around a drain field because eating them might entail ingesting harmful bacteria.
If you must grow trees and shrubs, shallow-rooted kinds are better to grow around septic tank drain fields. Shallow-rooted trees and shrubs include:
Generally, avoid planting large, fast-growing trees. But, in addition, some of the worst offenders are trees and shrubs with root systems that aggressively seek out sources of water. They are not fussy about the water source they tap into, meaning the pipes in your septic tank drain field are very much fair game. Weeping willow trees are a notorious example. There are many trees and shrubs to avoid, but here is a small sampling:
Let’s say you have avoided growing any of the most problematic plants directly over your septic tank drain field. Are you out of the woods? No! There is still a danger posed by any large, mature trees that may be growing anywhere near your septic system.
The general rule is that such a tree needs to be as many feet away from your septic drain field as it is tall — and that is a minimum requirement. So a specimen 50 feet tall at maturity should stand at least 50 feet away. Failing that, it is possible to install root barriers to try to keep tree roots from invading your septic drain field (similar to the bamboo barriers used in controlling invasive bamboo).
It is primarily the drain field pipes that you have to worry about when planting around septic tanks. You do not want roots penetrating the perforations and gumming up the works. All of the parts of this carefully tuned system must be functioning properly, else the result is a mess — and a costly one, at that.
While annual flowers are sufficiently shallow-rooted to serve as plants for septic fields, what makes them less than ideal is that they have to be planted every year. The less gardening work you have to do in a septic tank area, the better (both for you and for the septic system). Always wear gloves when digging in a drain field to protect yourself. Never dig deeply (you could damage the system).
Read the full article here: The Best and Worst Plants to Grow Over Septic Systems http://bit.ly/2xzOmB3
Planting isn’t just a spring activity. If you’re wondering what you can plant in the fall, the answer is almost anything. Here are six plant types to put in the ground during the fall.
Spring may be special, but fall is fine for planting. Turfgrass, spring-blooming bulbs, cool-season vegetables, perennials, trees, and shrubs can all be effectively planted in the fall.
Fall has distinct planting benefits. Autumn’s cooler air temperatures are easier on both plants and gardeners. The soil is still warm, allowing roots to grow until the ground freezes. In spring, plants don’t grow until the soil warms up.
Fall has more good days for planting than spring does, when rain and other unpredictable weather can make working the soil impossible. And there’s a lot more free time for gardening in autumn than in always-frantic spring.
Plus, the late season is usually bargain time at garden centers that are trying to sell the last of their inventory before winter.
Fall showers are generally plentiful, but it’s easy to deeply water plants if it doesn’t rain at least an inch per week.
Pests and disease problems fade away in the fall. You don’t need fertilizer, either. Fertilizer promotes new, tender growth that can be nipped by winter weather; stop fertilizing by late summer.
The window for fall planting ends about six weeks before your area gets hit with a hard frost, usually September or October.
Use this list for fall planting inspiration.
Fall is the best time to plant pansies because the still-warm soil temperatures give their roots time to establish. By planting in fall, you’ll get two seasons of enjoyment out of these cool-season favorites. Remove spent flowers so the plant doesn’t use its energy to set seeds, and keep the soil moist. After the soil freezes, mulch plants to prevent alternate freezing and thawing cycles that can heave plants out of the ground. Learn how to select and grow pansies.
Many vegetables thrive in cool weather, including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, and Swiss chard.
Many fall-harvested crops should be planted in early August to give them enough time to mature. Always consult the seed packet to see how many days it takes until maturity, and count backward from your frost date to allow enough time.
Lettuce, spinach, and other greens with a short maturity time can be planted later in the season. Extend the growing season by planting them under floating row covers or cold frames that will shield plants from frost but still allow light, air, and water to penetrate.
Many root crops taste sweeter when they’re harvested after frost.
Learn more about cool-season crops.
Trees and Shrubs
Fall is an ideal time to plant trees and shrubs. The weather is cool but the soil is still warm enough for root development. Before digging, always check with your local utility companies to locate any underground lines. Always plant trees and shrubs at their natural soil lines. Keep newly planted trees or shrubs well watered until the ground freezes so they get a good start before going into full dormancy during winter.
Learn more about planting trees and shrubs.
Read the full article here: What to Plant in the Fall http://bit.ly/1JPofnB
COLORADO SPRINGS –
Colorado Springs Utilities wants to remind its customers to contact 811 prior to digging, no matter the equipment or tool being used, or size of the project.
CSU says a large percentage of its electric, natural gas, water and wastewater mains, and service lines are underground and out of sight, and very dangerous if exposed or damaged.
“Many of our customers are installing fences, planting trees or shrubs, and laying patios, all examples of digging projects that require 811 notification,” said Shelly Dornick, Springs Utilities Damage Prevention Program Administrator.
And now, contacting 811 is easier than ever. Simply click colorado811.org, or if you prefer, call 811.
Read the full article here: Colorado Springs Utilities urging residents to call 811 before digging http://bit.ly/2hSA6QQ
Little Green Thumbs
When it comes to gardening, kids can’t wait to dig in. Here are some ideas to help them get growing.
Children gravitate to gardening for some very basic reasons: Dirt. Water. Hole-digging. To which I’d add, from my experience with two boys: Food. And bugs. (Not that they should ever be confused.) And they like the flowers.
Sure, kids love to see seeds sprout, then leaf out and eventually bear flowers or tempting berries or tiny tomatoes. But that takes time—and ten minutes can seem an eternity to little people with short attention spans. So if you want your kids to get excited about the plant part of gardening, look for projects with an easy payoff.
Aim for Fast Gratification
If you’re going to start seeds indoors, you can create a perfect starter nursery using the bottom of a cardboard egg container (and teach a useful lesson about recycling while you’re at it) and a starter soil mix. Or use peat pots—the compressed ones that expand with water like those magic sponges are a fun bonus.
Go for plants that germinate quickly, like radishes, even if you don’t like them—they come up in three or four days. If you get started in early spring, you’ll have to acclimate the seedlings to the outdoors for a few hours a day before you plant them; just cut the egg carton containers apart to separate the plants. Like the peat pots, the little cardboard forms can go right in the ground, where they will decompose as the plants grow.
If seeds are too slow, buy small nursery plants to give your garden a head start. Some easy-to-grow flowers include marigolds, nasturtium, ageratum, marigolds, bachelor’s buttons, cosmos, alyssum and zinnias. Equally easy vegetables include zucchini, peas, cucumber, carrots, and tomatoes.
If you have space to spare, consider giving your kids their own garden plot, so you can keep yours intact. If space is an issue, plant in containers; most plants will do equally well in pots.
Plant for All the Senses
Grow your own tasty vegetable soup in a patch with tomatoes, beans, carrots, squash—they say kids are more likely to eat what they grow and cook. It might encourage them to try new foods (it hasn’t worked in my veggie-averse house, but I live in hope). For fun, mix some rocks and pebbles into a container of soil and plant some full-size carrots. When they encounter these obstacles, the carrots will branch out into crazy shapes—great fun to unearth!
Create a pizza garden, with plum tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, rosemary, oregano, basil, onions and garlic. You can even plant them in a round plot, divided into triangular “slices”.
Make room for some “fairy berries.” These tiny alpine strawberries do well in pots and borders. Watch for white flowers that are followed by tiny tart fruits that little hands love to gather.
Read the full article here: Little Green Thumbs http://bit.ly/2wf611i
Believe it or not, it’s time to start planning your fall vegetable garden. Really.
Time waits for no gardener, especially when it comes to the fast-flying days of summer. If you want to keep harvesting fresh vegetables long after other gardeners are relaxing on the couch, you’ll need to start soon.
Cool-season vegetables help extend the gardening season, especially if they can be ready to harvest in about 60-80 days. The easiest method is to buy transplants of fall crops, although seeds work for some veggies, too.
The key to fall gardening success is selecting vegetables with the shortest time to maturity and then timing the planting. The goal is to make sure vegetables are ready to harvest before the really cold weather arrives.
Use a calendar to count back from the date of the average first frost for your area and match that to the number of days to maturity for each fast-growing vegetable you want to plant.
In Denver the average is around the first week in October, though it can be earlier or later. If 60-day broccoli is planted in mid-July, plan for a late September harvest. (Plants will be slower-growing than in summer.)
Other fall vegetable choices include beets, carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, parsnips and peas. Look for varieties that are promoted as cold-tolerant.
Read the full article here: It’s already time to plan your fall vegetable garden http://dpo.st/2vbiA0d
As any Colorado gardener who has put shovel to dirt can tell you, the hard clay here is a challenge under the best of circumstances. But with much of the topsoil gone, it was near-impossible.
“We started with something like pottery,” Wann says. “We couldn’t get a Rototiller in during the early years. It was sun-baked clay and sandy.”
Often, some digging and a couple of trips to the garden store is enough to get started. Even so, one thing holds true of both monumental and simple garden experiences: the soil continues to get better with time and effort. That’s important, especially with organic gardens, because building a loose, fertile soil is a major factor in garden success.
“Sometimes, it takes three to five years of adding organic matter to get decent planting,” he says. “It’s not that you can’t plant each year, but that it gets better each year.”
For gardeners converting a spot in their yards, he suggests renting or buying a tiller to break up the ground if you’re planning a good-sized space or if you don’t have the time or energy to use a shovel.
In Colorado especially, compost is the gardener’s friend. While you may compost food scraps at home, it’s hard for the average family to produce enough to amend the soil in their garden. You can buy compost, though, and Smith suggests adding compost to break up the soil and add organic matter. Till the soil after adding to mix the compost in well. Repeat with a couple of inches of compost each year. If the soil you start with seems particularly unpromising, add both purchased garden soil and compost.
Smith suggests adding a granular fertilizer with the compost each year before planting and tilling it or digging it to root-depth in the soil. He also advises gardeners to use a water-soluble liquid fertilizer for the plants during the growing season. Gardeners may choose organic or non-organic options.
Read the full article here: How to turn Colorado’s tough soil into gardening gold – The Denver Post http://dpo.st/2uRxjNN